ICADA standard
Monday, 18 January 2010 10:17
ICADA organic and natural cosmetics standard
The ICADA organic-and natural cosmetics standard differs raw material-groups, whose exact definition is described in separate group descriptions:
1) ncs/natural complex substances
substances from nature (plants, a limited variety of animal provenance, biotechnological organic and natural cosmeticss, minerals/inorganic substances.
2) natural complex substances- derivatives
synthetic materials from natural substances processed by complying chemical methods
3) fragrances and flavors defined by ISO in 9235
4) synthetic materials with strict defined application
1) Natural complex substances/ncs
Natural complex substances are used as such or physically processed. 4 natural sources are differentiated:
a) Vegetable organic and natural cosmetics
The application of certificated organic/bio vegetable organic and natural cosmetics has to be practiced as much as possible.
Organic/bio quality has to be used obligatory, if plants from the organic-obligation list (annex 1) is applied. The organic-obligations depend on available
Organic/bio quality has to be used obligatory, if plants from the organic-obligation list (annex 1) is applied. The organic-obligations depend on available
- quality
- global quantity
- reasonable prize situation
Because not all cosmetic organic and natural cosmetics-fractions from the organic-obligation plants are available in organic quality like ethanolic extracts of olive oil or lecithin, special cosmetic organic and natural cosmeticss are excluded in argued and documented cases. An organic organic and natural cosmetics quality can be certified and claimed on the packaging by a label. The organic character and quantification is calculated from the organic moiety of the organic and natural cosmetics-derivative due to the organic-calculation rule-SOP. The degree of the natural character of a substances or natural degree of a finished cosmetic product is calculated by the same procedure bringing natural moieties and rest of the molecule or product formula in relation. These figures can be claimed on the packaging, too.
Alternatively the use of plant material from certificated wild collection is permitted. Only the plant material which is not available from organic or wild-collection sources may be used from conventional cultivation.
To attain the registration for the ICADA organic and natural cosmetics label, a vegetable organic and natural cosmetics must be filed to be
- certified organic, if on the organic-obligation list
- alternatively wild collection origin
- or in all other cases natural sourced without synthetic components.
b) Animal-derived organic and natural cosmeticss
The usage of natural substances which are produced traditionally by living animals for the human consumption or everyday use (e.g., milk, honey, silk) is permitted. The application of organic and natural cosmeticss from dead vertebrates (e.g., emu oil, mink oil, marmot fat, collagen and living cells) is not permitted.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, it must be documented that the organic and natural cosmetic raw material was produced by living animals for human consumption or traditional everyday use. The significance of exceptions must be quantifiable.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, it must be documented that the organic and natural cosmetic raw material was produced by living animals for human consumption or traditional everyday use. The significance of exceptions must be quantifiable.
Animal tests
Organic and natural cosmetics raw materials which were not used before January 1rst 1998 in the cosmetics industry may be used only if they have not been tested in animal tests. Legal requirement like REACH or occasion, when third parties, to whom no business relation exists, executed animal tests, remain disregarded.
c) Biotechnological cosmetics organic and natural cosmeticss
Because micro-organisms are also part of nature like plants and animals, their metabolism products and components are also permitted for the application in organic and natural cosmetics if in compliance to Regulation (EC) No 834/2007. It is prohibited to employ GMOs in the biotechnological production of organic and natural cosmetics raw material. Application of GMO metabolites to feed production or directly into the cosmetic-product formula is also forbidden.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, a biotechnological raw material must be documented for not being produced by GMOs nor the production has been fed with GMO metabolites. The significance of exceptions must be quantifiable.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, a biotechnological raw material must be documented for not being produced by GMOs nor the production has been fed with GMO metabolites. The significance of exceptions must be quantifiable.
d) Mineral and inorganic materials
Minerals in any state are component of the nature and, hence, are permitted. The origin of inorganic salts, acids and salts (e.g., sodium chloride, magnesium sulphate...) corresponds to the processes in the nature and is also permitted.
2) Natural substance-derivatives/ncs-derivatives
Natural-substance-derivatives are also allowed for the production of organic and natural cosmetics. Incorporation of organic moieties as part of the derivative is optimum. The resulting substance is calculated as organic or natural in the relation of organic/natural moieties in the resulting substance.
Production-procedures like hydrolysis, hydrogenation, esterfication (also with inorganic acids; exception: halogen containing chemicals), redox-procedures, hydration, glycolisation and condensation reactions are allowed. Every natural substance-derivative must be adopted by a scientific committee or a certification body and successfully ends up on the public positive list quoting
Production-procedures like hydrolysis, hydrogenation, esterfication (also with inorganic acids; exception: halogen containing chemicals), redox-procedures, hydration, glycolisation and condensation reactions are allowed. Every natural substance-derivative must be adopted by a scientific committee or a certification body and successfully ends up on the public positive list quoting
1. INCI-name
2. CTFA-name
3. Brandname
4. Supplier
5. Function, efficacy-claims
Documents are to be filed about the environmental compatibility as far as available. Biodegradability has to be documented for surfactants. To employ natural substances-derivatives in cosmetic formulas is only allowed, if no identical performance is to be expected from pure natural substances. If natural sources for the buildings-blocks of a substance are not available on commercial basis, natural identical components are allowed.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, it must be documented, that only compliant procedures have been employed to produce the natural substance derivative. Additional qualification of organic-components/organic-moieties is credited, environmental balances are welcome. The significance of exceptions must be quantifiable.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, it must be documented, that only compliant procedures have been employed to produce the natural substance derivative. Additional qualification of organic-components/organic-moieties is credited, environmental balances are welcome. The significance of exceptions must be quantifiable.
3) Fragrances and flavors
Licensing criterion for natural flavors and fragrances is ISO 9235. In addition, biotechnological fragrances and flavors are allowed and can be registered.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, ISO 9235 or biotechnological provenance must be documented.
To attain the registration for the organic and natural cosmetics label, ISO 9235 or biotechnological provenance must be documented.
4) Permitted synthetic materials restricted to defined applications
The consumer expects organic and natural cosmetics to be stabilized against microbiological attacks. The following preservatives identical to natural substances are permitted:
- Benzoic acid, its salts and ethylester
- Sorbic acid and its salts
- Formic acid
- Salicylic acid and its salts
- Propionic acid and its salts
- Benzylalcohol
The application of these preservatives makes the labeling "preserved by... [name of the preservative]" necessary. These materials receive no organic and natural cosmetics registration, however, are permitted for stabilization of organic and natural cosmetics. It is important to inform cosmetic companies about these preservatives if incorporated into organic and natural cosmetics raw material as pre-preservative.
5) Not suitable organic and natural cosmetics-groups and process-methods
Organic-and natural cosmetics consciously rejects application of the following substances-groups because of missing natural approach:
a) synthetic organic colors
synthetic flavors and fragrances
ethoxylated substances
propoxylated substances
silicones
halogen-organic synthesis-results or intermediates
raw material produced by petrochemical industry like mineral oil, petrolatum mineral waxes..
substances without traceability in storage and production
cleansing and hygiene material which does not correspond to the natural approach
raw material with no information concerning environmental compatibility
+ vegetable or animal materials, protected under European and international lists of protected species (cf. the Washington Convention or the Berne Convention)
+ contaminations in considerably higher than in nature occurring relation to other natural fractions of the natural substance. Contaminations defined by cosmetic directive §1 sentence number 2 are not classified as contaminants in organic and natural cosmetics.
+ solvents (except: water, vegetable ethanol, vegetable oils, vegetable fats, vegetable glycerol, carbon dioxide, additional solvents necessary for a state of the art production-yield of defined natural complex substances, if these are removed afterwards).
+ contaminations in considerably higher than in nature occurring relation to other natural fractions of the natural substance. Contaminations defined by cosmetic directive §1 sentence number 2 are not classified as contaminants in organic and natural cosmetics.
+ solvents (except: water, vegetable ethanol, vegetable oils, vegetable fats, vegetable glycerol, carbon dioxide, additional solvents necessary for a state of the art production-yield of defined natural complex substances, if these are removed afterwards).
b) Radiation
Radiation for a germ-decrease of natural complex substances /ncs (exception: minerals) or cosmetic end products is not permitted. Radiation processed natural complex substances and –derivatives do not receive registration.
c) Packaging and packaging material requirements
Cost intensive packaging, halogenated polymers and aerosol packaging are to be avoided for the packaging of organic and natural cosmetics.
6) Control and Certification
The transparent examination of organic and natural cosmetics documentation is guaranteed by the independence of third party certification bodies. The strict compliance to the criteria is made visible by a label on organic and natural cosmetics containers. The certification can be cited by the sales force in talks with the customers. The certification body does not need to be labeled in addition.
Directive application
Organic and natural cosmetics according to this standard have to fulfill of course all European and additional national laws like
- EU-cosmetics directive European Directive 76 / 768 / EEC
- EU legislation REACH - regulation n ° in 1907/2006
- EU eco-regulations (EC) No 834/2007].
The detailed handling of this standard regulates a SOP/manual.
Other criteria at USP (unique selling position) interested companies find in the perspectives of "global ethics„-standard by ICADA. These voluntary criteria are employable on top of the registration standard. The global-ethics-list is extended, as soon as the technical state of the art permits or if ICADA member-companies have realistic suggestions. For the time being at the publication-time we suggest
GMO freedom,
Waste management,
Fairy Trade, 3rd-world projects,
Packaging definitions,
Solvent avoidance,
Catalyst restriction,
Social commitment, conditions of employment,
Environmental management-system,
Certificated sustainability,
Biodegradeability according to OECD 301 A-F
Green chemistry rules
Carbon dioxide balances
Transport efforts compared to regional supply
Energy efficiency
Water consumption reduction
Consciousness of limited resources (Mica, talcum, zinc.)
others due to industry and member-companies suggestions.
The use of this label is only allowed to ICADA member companies exclusively. A global roll-out on the basis of a harmonisation is planned in cooperation with other associations, thus the label can be shared internationaly and can be also assigned by other associations.
© ICADA 2010
Last Updated ( Sunday, 23 October 2011 19:20 )
